
letters
from japan
by michelle
Mysteries of Japan
Part One: Obaachans
First, to make one thing clear, an Obaachan is not a creature
exclusive to Japan. Obaachans are everywhere, in every country
around the world. We see them standing in front of us in line
at the grocery store, coupons in hand. We see them sitting behind
the wheel, driving only slightly faster than a brisk walk. We
see them heading off to bingo, garage sales, and bridge clubs,
sometimes out in their Sunday best, pillbox hat over waves of
silver hair, carrying a purse that could fit several volumes
of encyclopedias. The Obaachan. You know them, and you probably
even have one or two in your family.
Obaachans in Japan are slightly different from the typical ones
you find in the States. One example can be witnessed in the
arena of public transportation etiquette. Most Japanese people
are exceedingly polite on the public buses and trains. They
will get up to let and older person or a pregnant woman sit
down. They almost always use phrases like "excuse me"
and "Im sorry to be so rude by bothering you but
can I possible step around you so that I may exit the bus?"
When boarding the bus, its typical to see two Japanese
people arguing over who should go first. "Go ahead."
"No, you." "No, really. After you." (It
makes me think of those new sports like Extreme Windsurfing
and Extreme Mountain Biking. Extreme Courtesy, man!)
However, this intricate system of extreme politeness seems to
break down after a certain age. The Obaachan seems to be completely
unaware of such a system. Or rather and most likely, she doesnt
seem to care. Obaachans have notoriously pointy elbows, which
they will, on occasion, use to check you into the side of the
bus if youre not careful. Getting on or getting off the
bus, its best to stay far out of their way. With surprising
strength for an old lady, theyve been known to push, step
on, and knock down any passengers in their direct path. Ive
seen it happen, Ive been a victim, and Ive learned
my lesson.
In addition to the brutal use of force on the buses and trains,
they also exhibit another rather startling difference from their
Western counterparts. In America, we can occasionally see an
elderly woman buying the blue/black hair dye in the supermarket.
Japans Obaachans, however, have taking dying their hair
to a new level. The kind of level any member of hard-core punk
band would be proud of. Its quite common to be sitting
behind a woman on the bus whose entire front portion of her
hair is bright pink, while the rest of her hair is a snowy white.
Electric purple also seems to be quite a popular choice, making
it look as if they have spread grape jelly over half their head.
Recently, on a flight back from Hokkaido, I was stuck waiting
in the airport for an hour, when I glanced at an Obaachan across
the way with a seu of very curly, very green locks set across
her head like a fertile lawn. Her entire head was done in moss
green, and it was quite obviously not a wig. She didnt
seem bothered by it at all, she was not wearing a hat, which
made me think it was probably not an enormous mistake by a hairdresser-in-training.
As she casually talked to her neighbor, I began to think about
what a bizarre trend this was in Obaachan hair color. Who is
responsible for starting this? Was it a singular famous person
with an affinity for bright hair colors? Or was it the 50 years
of waking up at 5:00am everyday to make a bento lunch for their
husbands that drove them over the edge at the age of sixty,
so much so that the one and only outlet with which they can
express themselves becomes superhero hair colors? Or is it a
quite simply an unnatural fascination with that woman on Are
You Being Served?
Whatever it is, I may someday find out, but for now, it remains
a mystery of Japan. |
Mysteries of Japan
Part Two: Climate Control (The Absence of)
Mysteries of Japan
Part One: Obaachans
Godzilla Was a
Misunderstood Foreigner
School Lunch, or,
Why I Carry Candy
and Gum in My Handbag
What's in a name?
The Shochu Monster
Airmail!
Intro
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